I killed my first three attempts at a licorice plant container setup before anything clicked. The silver foliage looked perfect in the nursery pots, then turned sad and soggy on my patio within weeks. Honestly? I almost gave up on the whole trailing thing.
That changed when I stopped treating it like a regular houseplant and started treating it like the tough South African vine it actually is. Now every summer my pots cascade with those soft, felt-like leaves, and the whole arrangement looks finished without much fuss. If you want the same results with your own licorice plant container, this is the exact process I use.
Picking the Right Container for Licorice Plant Success
Size matters more than most people admit. I used to grab whatever pretty pot sat empty in the garage. Big mistake.
A good licorice plant container needs room for the stems to spill and for the roots to stay happy without drowning. I aim for something at least 12 inches across and deep enough that the plant can trail over the edges without the whole thing tipping. Window boxes and elevated deck planters work especially well because they let the growth hang free.
Material counts too. Clay pots breathe and keep roots cooler in summer heat. Plastic holds moisture longer, which helps if I forget to water for a day. I skip anything without drainage holes. Root rot ends the story fast.
Here’s what I look for every time:
- At least 12 inches wide so the plant has space to spread
- Solid drainage holes (three or more) at the bottom
- A weight that stays put when the stems get long and heavy
Tall containers beat shallow ones for this plant. The extra height gives the cascade more drama.
Position the empty tall planter before filling it: a saturated, top-heavy container is difficult to move without damaging trailing stems.
Getting the Soil Mix Right
Store-bought potting soil alone never worked for me. It stayed too wet or dried into a brick. I mix my own now.
I combine regular potting mix with extra perlite and a bit of coarse sand. The goal is soil that drains fast yet holds just enough moisture. Licorice plant hates soggy feet. Once the mix feels light and airy in my hands, I know it’s ready.
I fill the container almost to the top, leave a couple inches of space, and settle the plant at the same depth it sat in its nursery pot. Then I firm the soil gently around the roots. No packing. Just enough pressure so the plant stands upright.
FYI, I never add those moisture-retaining crystals. They keep the soil wet too long and invite trouble.
Avoid high-nitrogen fertilizer at planting, which can encourage weak, overly green growth and reduce the licorice plant’s silvery appearance.
Light and Watering That Actually Work
Full sun brings out the best silver color. I place my containers where they get six hours or more of direct light. Afternoon shade helps in the hottest stretches of summer so the leaves don’t crisp.
Watering trips up almost everyone. I stick my finger in the soil. When the top inch or two feels dry, I water thoroughly until it runs out the bottom. Then I stop. In peak heat the plant may need water daily, especially in smaller pots. Cooler weeks stretch that out to every few days.
I water at the soil level, never over the leaves. Wet foliage invites fungal issues I do not want to deal with.
One season I overwatered every single day because the plant looked thirsty. The roots rotted and the whole thing collapsed. Now I wait for that dry feel and trust the process. The plant rewards me with denser growth.
Pinch the growing tips after stems begin trailing to encourage branching, creating a fuller cascade instead of a few long, sparse vines.
Companion Plants That Make the Container Pop
Licorice plant shines as a spiller. I always plant it near the edge so the stems can tumble over the rim. The center gets the taller, upright flowers.
My favorite combinations stay simple. In full sun I pair it with bright celosia or short zinnias. The silver foliage makes the colors jump. In partial shade I drop in a coleus with bold leaves. The contrast looks intentional without trying too hard.
I keep the center plant a bit taller than the licorice and fill any gaps with a mid-height filler if the pot is large. The whole arrangement feels balanced and full by midsummer.
Pruning and Everyday Maintenance
I pinch the tips when the stems stretch too long. That simple move forces branching and keeps the plant bushy instead of leggy. I do it a few times through the season, never more than needed.
Fertilizer stays light. A balanced liquid feed once a month during peak growth is plenty. Too much and the plant grows soft and floppy. I learned that the hard way after a heavy feeding left me with weak stems that snapped in wind.
Pests rarely bother my containers. Aphids showed up once. A strong spray of water knocked them off and they never returned. Spider mites appear in very dry spells, but regular watering keeps them away.
Overwintering My Licorice Plant Containers
I live outside the hardiness range, so frost ends the outdoor show. Before the first cold night I bring the whole container inside. A bright, cool window works. I cut back on water and stop fertilizing. The plant slows down but stays alive.
Come spring I move it back outside after the last frost risk passes. Sometimes I take cuttings in late summer and root them for next year’s pots. That way I never start from zero.
Mistakes I Made So You Don’t Have To
I rushed the first year. I planted too early in cold soil and the plant sulked for weeks. Now I wait until tomatoes go in the ground. Same timing works for licorice.
I also crowded the pot once. Three plants fought for space and none looked good. One strong plant per medium container is enough. Larger pots can handle two if I keep them near the edges.
Small containers dry out too fast in heat. I switched to bigger ones and the daily watering stress disappeared. The plant grew fuller and the leaves stayed brighter.
IMO the biggest error is treating this plant like it needs constant attention. Once established it prefers a little neglect over smothering care.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I grow a licorice plant container on a shady balcony? It tolerates partial shade, but full sun gives the best silver color and densest growth. Too little light and the stems stretch thin and pale.
How often should I water a licorice plant container in summer? Check the top inch of soil. When it feels dry, water until it drains out the bottom. Hot days and small pots often mean daily watering. Cooler weather stretches it out.
What size pot works best for a mature licorice plant container? I use at least 12 inches wide and deep enough for good trailing. Bigger pots need less frequent watering and support stronger growth.
Does licorice plant need fertilizer in containers? A light monthly feed during active growth is plenty. Skip it in winter or when the plant sits indoors. Too much fertilizer makes soft, weak stems.
Can I overwinter my outdoor licorice plant container? Yes. Bring it inside before frost to a bright, cool spot. Cut water back and stop feeding. Move it outside again after the last frost risk passes.
I keep these same pots going year after year with that simple routine. The plant asks for very little once you match its preferences.
The real win for me was realizing the licorice plant container does not need perfect conditions. It needs the right container, decent drainage, and a light touch on water. Get those three things right and the cascading silver foliage shows up almost on its own. My patio looks better every summer because of it. Yours can too.
